We spent a few very pleasant hours on the dunes. We walked out on the boardwalk, dismounting here and there to sit in the sand and watch the gentle waves lapping the shore. The sky was crowded with piles of clouds shifting around, covering and uncovering the sun, but mostly yielding a gentle gray brightness. The color of the straight's clear water depended on the movement of the clouds. If the clouds separated to reveal a gap of blue sky, that blueness extended right down into the ocean, like a broad stripe. The other stripes were silvery-blue or pinkish-blue, depending on how heavy and dark the clouds were. The ocean and the sky were constantly changing, ever so quietly. To enjoy such a scene, you don't have to do anything, or know anything. You just sit on the sand in the mild breeze and let the emptiness fill you.
|Half-mile long boardwalk|
On the way to Bouctouche we got caught up in a tourist trap. In the little town of Shediac, the Rotary Club has installed the world's largest statue of a lobster in a tiny, bayside park with a few other phony tourist attractions.
|The World's Largest Statue of a Lobster|
Do you suppose there is a lot of competition for that title?
|More photo opportunities in front of inevitable souvenir shop.|
For lunch we went back into the town of Bouctouche and ate at a restaurant that turned out to be Acadian. Dan knew from his guidebook that the coast was largely populated by Acadians, but we weren't deliberately looking for that type of food. The two women we dealt with in the restaurant spoke very flat, broad French and had rather a rough manner, though they were nice. They served a terrific vegetable soup. They grilled filet of sole without flour for us, and served it with fresh steamed carrots, an unusual side dish, and finely chopped cole slaw. On the sound system they played country music, heavy on the fiddles, that sounded just like the Cajun music around New Orleans.
|Acadian Seafood Restaurant|
In general the traffic was very difficult. I think it's typical of touristy coastal towns everywhere–two-lane highways, clogged by a combination of tourist and local traffic.
When we got back to Moncton we stopped by Bore Park. When the incoming Fundy tide starts rolling up the Petitcodiac River, it starts with one low even wave that rolls right up the river; that is known as the tidal bore. You can sit in this park and watch it pass, if you can get the timing right; we didn't see it. Still, it was interesting to see the muddy water being pushed back by the incoming flow of somewhat bluer ocean water. I wanted to sit there until the tide started going back again, but it was going to be a few more hours. I find it very addictive to observe a natural process like this.